Saturday 24 February 2007

Time just flys...

I can't believe that i only have one more week left and then its back on the plane for my epic journey home. Time really does fly by when your having a ball..

So much has happened that it would be absolutely impossible to write it all down but i will throw in a few highlights.

Well...*big breath*.... i can't actually remember where i left of last but i have just gotten back to civilisation after being on a tiny little boat with no toilet and shower for the past four days. It was one of the most amazing experiences ever. Yes, going without a shower for me was amazing. This boat was tiny too. The body of the boat was filled with mattress's so all you did was lie about. Really had no choice actually because there was no where to stand up. Unless you scaled the side of the boat so not really an option. At night we would moor against the bank of the Nile and snuggle up inside our sleeping bags and try our best to get to sleep. It wasn't easy as the weather reached arctic conditions but with all the layers piled back on i still managed to catch a few hours of napping. The first night was relatively uneventful until 6am when a large cruise ship came waaaay too close to our boat and sent a massive wave over half the boat wetting half the people who were sound asleep. Water got in under the boat where our bags were stored and i have a great picture of us sitting on the bank in our pj's waiting for the crew to get all the water off the boat. The rest of the trip i slept with one eye open expecting the next tsunami to swallow the little boat hole. Fortunately it didn't happen again. The crew on the boat were great and the food was fantastic. Well.....as fantastic as the food gets in Egypt. Beans, rice, eggs, beans, vegys and beans. Some spices here and there but that's basically it.

We visited a Nubian village and had dinner in a locals house. That was something different sitting on a dirt floor with food being put on the ground near your feet. I'll have to try this new technique when i get home. I also had some Henna done on my hands as well by the wife of the chief of the village.

Also visited Abu Simbel which is something you can only see to believe. I'm talking more the crowds in side than the actual monument... 1000's and 1000's of people (mainly french and ze Germans!!) because you need a police convoy to get there so everyone arrives at once. Aside from that the place was really amazing. So much bigger than i could ever imagine and the positioning of the temple to the river and the sun created a truly amazing atmosphere.

Im slowly learning more Arabic words and so far have all the swear words under control (which has come in very handy) and can also say hi, thank you, sorry and butter.

Im back in Cairo as i type this and will be heading out in the morning to the Sinai peninsular to climb Mt Sinai. After speaking to a fw locals i have been told to take my sleeping bag as it is going to be extremely cold up the top. If its anything like the cold i have felt over the past few weeks then im going to need to build a burning pyre to keep me warm. Wonder how that will go down with the locals. After that its time to kick back with a few lazy days of diving, sun and sand. Reeeeeally looking forward to this. Its been a hectic holiday so some time to chill will be sooooooooo nice.

Im super pooped at the mo as i have been on over nighter (filthy) train and have also circumnavigated the Cairo museum in an two hours flat. I don't think i have given it justice but theres so much to see and nothing is labeled. Its like an old storage house for ancient artifacts which just so happens to have a 50 pound entrance fee.

Tonight we are doing a dodgy and going to the sound and light show at the giza pyramids without actually going to the show. The show costs 60 pounds but we have found a restaurant that we can sit at and watch the show, listen to the show AND eat at the same time all for 50 pounds which includes tranfers from our hotel. Doesn't get better than that....or stingier. a few people from the tour are leaving us early in the morn so its our last horah with them. Though im sure its going to be a quite night. I haven't had more than 4 drinks since being on this trip and bed time has been on average 9:30pm. Am i old??? It really has been that hard that we all have been doing the same thing.

I really will try and get some pics up but i think it may have to wait now till i get home. These net cafes are extremely dodgy.

I shall post up again as soon as i can. No doubt after my 2am climb up mt sinai!! I'll bring some blizzard snow home ;-)

OH and apolgies on my blog lacking wit an humour, this place is sucking me dry. I have a stupid cold and im about to head to my room for sleep. First time in a bed for nearly a week. YAY!!!!!!!!

Well its enough whinging from me so until then...

Saturday 17 February 2007

Back in the real world

Well, i've finally made it to Luxor with a huge sigh of relief. Don't get me wrong, i have been having a fantastic time but it has definitely been a hard 4 days.

We piled into two four wheel drives at the crack of dawn in Cairo and headed out into the Western Desert for a bit of fun. It was everything i didn't expect.

The 4wd's weren't flash but they were reliable which was a relief. The first hour of driving was fun with all of us excited about the trip ahead but soon after it was out with the ipods and kicking back watching the desert go by. We drove through a few Oasis's which were definitely not what i expected. Just like the movies I pictured beautiful palm trees surrounding a large body of water in the middle of a sand dunes as far as the eye can see but instead i was met with dirty dusty streets chockers full of donkeys, cows, beeping trucks, dirty kids and rubbish mountains that would put any tip in sydney to shame. It was interesting to say the least watching the life of the Egyptians but i was constantly worried about picking up some air borne disease with no cure known yet to man. I had pictures of lying in a pee stained hospital bed sharing a dirty syringe with my gangrene neighbour in the next bed.

We picked up an armed police officer who rode in our 4wd's with us as security. We nicknamed him Donatello after the teenage mutant ninja turtle as he was always keen to show us ladies his stick swinging skills. He also confided in one of the girls that 'he likes to use weights'. He alsoc got the nickname Captain Highpants and Chopper to which none of them he understood. Every 100kms or so we passed through police check points and they would peer in our windows with big dirty toothy grins. It was a little unnerving though to see so many machine guns and i wondered at times if it was Egypt or Iraq.

Aside from that, the deserts were picturesque. We drove through the black desert, the white desert and finally stayed in the mushroom desert the first night. When we arrived there was a massive sand storm and it looked unlikely that we were going to stay. Once the sun set though, the wind completely died down and we pulled out a sleeping bags and slept under the stars.

Boy - o boy was it cold. It was like nothing i have ever experienced before. 2 pairs of socks, 2 pairs of pants, pyjama bottoms, then track pants. Two long sleeved t-shirts, one thermal top, one fleece jacket and a woollen jumper. One beany and pair of gloves. Yep, i was still cold. It has been like this for the past four nights!!!!

As for toilets?? Find your favourite rock, a wad of toilet paper and be one with nature. On the third night i was really crook and very panicky. It's not really the place you want to have an upset belly. Any slight rumbling and i was popping Imodium like my life depended on it...which in my opinion it did.

I read back and it kinda sounds like a dodgy trip but it has been absolutely amazing. The foxes come at night and steal our food (and our shoes if your not careful) and the Bedouin people we have been travelling with rock on! Each night they play drums around the fire and we sing, clap dance and act like gooses which i seem very capable of doing.

And it IS all true about the sand, it really does get into every crevice of the body but crazily enough you get used to it and almost enjoy it....almost.

OH we also went swimming in natural springs that were as hot as a bath tub but made you bright orange. In our bright orange colour we then jumped on camels and rode to a new camp. So not only were we orange but we smelt like camel. With no make-up, no showering, i don't get much sexier than this!

Today has been pretty crap with lots of little things going wrong for me. To name a few, I have hurt my foot jumping off the back of a truck then arrived at the hotel to have no toilet or running shower. THEN went for a walk and got followed by a guy. *sigh* but i guess these things happen. It was better in the afternoon with a horse and carriage ride to the Karnak temple. Tomorrow we ride poor malnourished donkeys into the Valley of the kings.

Hopefully i will have a few photos again soon but they want to charge me my first born to get my photos copied to disk so i will try at another place soon.

I'm missing my bed, shower, Luke, shower, cats, shower, toilet, shower, and shower but would not change this experience for the world.

Monday 12 February 2007

Some pics!!!!

Here are some pics. Its taking me so long to upload that i will only put a couple to keep you amused.
Apologies if my blogs are not very comprehensive, its hard when rushed for time...


















Day one/two of the tour

WOW! So much has happened since you and i spoke last. How much time do i have here to talk about it?

Well i will start off from when i woke up after a 5 hour sleep on saturday. I met up with a few aussie strangers and we went out to a tiny little takeaway store....wait wait wait let me tell you about my room... oh so much has happened!!!!!

My room - walls are so incredibly thin that i can hear everything so crystal clear from three rooms away. If they are talking about what creams they are applying i can hear it, if they are making bodily function noise i can hear it. It's nuts. The water was only luke warm and chose to wear my rubber thongs EVERYWHERE!!!! its all part of the fun though and makes for great stories.

anyways back to my takeaway store... things are so cheap. i bought a shawerma which is like a donna kebab for 7 pounds. (roughly $1.50) and it was so good but an egyptian man befriended us and showed us how to order etc. It was very much a locals store. Anyway, this guy Mohammad, told us to go and eat at his friends coffee house where we drank mango juice and smoked sheeshas. I have photos as proof....but there s always a catch. Nothing for nothin i say!!! we got dragged to his cousins, brothers, uncles, neighbours stores and i was being driven nuts!!!! Anyway it worked out ok because we ordered a taxi for the next day to take us to Saccaara and Memphis which is a funeral plot and ancient pyramid. Very cool!!! BUT we had to stop at his friends gold store (of course)

Met the tour group last night and the tour began today. Everyone is of roughly the same age and pretty much as cool as me. i know, hard to believe but there are other cool people out there.

Today we went to the famous Giza pyramids and i had the most fantastic time!!! I was awe struck at how amazing the size of them. You just cant comprehend until you are there. I have a gazillion photos which are amazing. i will try and get some on here soon. We got to climb inside the pyramid which i can't say i really enjoyed. Im glad i did it but to do it again i probably wouldn't. You had to crawl through because the passage ways were so incredibly narrow and it becomes so so hot that at one point i actually had a small panic attack. Shhh just don't tell the others, i have to keep a brave face. Once inside you cant take photos but it was exactly how it is in books. So awesome.....then we went into the Pharaohs doctors tomb were there was no tourists and a dodgy policeman took us down to the depths and he encouraged us to use the camera and climb on stuff and take funny photos. Then his boss came and i got in trouble for using the camera hahaha... oh well.... saw the sphinx which is MASSIVE!!!!!!! again, i have photos...

Which pretty much leads me to here this afternoon. OH OH yesterday we went to the Khan El Khalili (markets) which its shops date back to the 14th century. Loved it!!!!! Apparently tonight we are going to the Khan El Khalili for dinner with my tour group. Should be good. This is where we will learn what to expect in the desert for the next four nights. No tents, No toilets, NOTHING!!!! It will put hair on my chest!

But thats it for now. i'll try and update and hopefully not bore you when i get back from the desert.....if i come back...ok im going to try and get some picys burnt now so i'll put up some favourites for those that prefer picture books. You know who you are ;-)

Until then....

Saturday 10 February 2007

Well i'm here

I've arrived...and don't the men of Egypt know about it. Ever so friendly these chaps are and they want to know all the intricate details of your life. I've been welcomed, called beautiful from afar and been quizzed better than anything Eddie McGuyer could do. I've only been in the country 8 hours with 6 of them spent in bed! I know, i know i can hear you saying 'be careful susanna' well i am. I'm being ever so careful to watch how many times i get called beautiful a day ;-)

So my flight over was interesting and long. Boy oh boy was it long. After the first leg of 8 hours i had had enough. I don't pick myself as a contortionist but i twisted my body into every imaginable position within 1 metre square and still never found that comfortable spot.

The plane landed in Singapore with and 1 hour stop over so i wandered around Singapore airport looking for a camera shop. Here i am in Asia, with thousands of shops around and Susanna can't find a camera store. Typical!!

So back on the plane for another 13 hour stint and im off again in Dubai. I knew there was a point during my trip i was going to get lost and this was the place to do it.

Then back on the plane again for another 4 hours to Cairo. THANK GOD IM OFF!!!!

So i've arrived and it's INTERESTING!!!! Dirty as anything with garbage in the gutters, every building is brown and old and falling apart. I have already had one black out in my room and i have everything securely strapped to me in fear of it going walk about. I even sleep in my sleeping bag in fear the bed lice will take me away.

The hotel lobby is fancy but my room is super basic. I'm happy i have my sleeping bag and rubber thongs. So tonight im about to meet up with my friends, yes i have some already, and no they are not Egyptian men, and i'll be heading out to dinner somewhere some how. It's 5:30pm and pitch black outside. My hotel is in an a dodgy ally way next to the Syrian embassy and they have these big arse machine guns. Don't think it will be an idea to take a photo with the guy and me slipping some rabbit ears behind his head.

so that's it from me for now. Tomorrow i discover Cairo. I shall let you all know how this goes.

Wednesday 7 February 2007

Wow!! Who would have thought eleven nights would have gone by so quickly. It's already the eve of my trip and yes I haven't packed my bags yet. Who would have thought THAT!

With the awesome powers of technology i have checked into my flight last night from my bed in my PJ's. There was no queuing. There was no smelly backpacker trying to jump the que by sweet talking his way in front of me in his Swedish accent. (oooh you!!! )
No, there was just me, my mobile and a cat with bad breath as i punch in my allocated top secret mission code into my multi-functional technically advanced communications device (aka my mobile).

Before i could sing the full version of the Australian anthem, 2nd verse inclusive, BOOM i was allocated seat 63K. Wow!!!! Next thing you know we will be getting video telephone calls and 'voice mail'....ha, they do that already? Well i'll be.

So any who, my bags remain strewn across my lounge room floor. Aside from a fat cat, theres not much else inside them. When oh when will the little pixies come and pack my bags for me!!! Honestly, this has to be the hardest part. Lubing up and shoe horning into my backpack day clothes, night clothes, winter clothes, summer clothes, just in case clothes, clothes that don't really fit me but MAY be needed, clothes that i've never ever worn but in Egypt may be fashionable and lets not forget the endless amount of toiletries us woman like to carry. My day to day handbag consists of lip gloss (2 variety's) , moisturiser, lipstick, mascara, tissues, feminine hygiene products, Panadol, Naprogesic, suntan lotion and im only leaving the house for 8 hours!!!!!!!! How the hell do i pack enough toiletries for a month!!!! According to my calculations, based on those statistics, i would need to carry 576 items of toiletries!!! Move over Shapelle Corby, i'll have enough drugs for the whole population of India.

So its all stations go at my little abode tonight. Packing, preening, cleaning, stressing. None taking more priority than the other. If i can remember to breath amongst all this i should be A-OK!

Sunday 28 January 2007

Cowardly Lion

With just eleven days on the ol' egypt-counting clock i'm starting to get really nervous. If it wasn't for Richard Branson's Virgin Galactic space travel company, there wouldn't have been a further destination for me to go.



"You're right, I am a coward! I haven't any courage at all! I even scare myself." -Cowardly Lion, Wizard of Oz



I'm travelling to a country that is renowned for it's terrorist links. Where newspapers are frequented with headlines of "Tourists the target of Cairo bomb" and "Islamic group claims Cairo bombing" but with terrorism in our backyards these days i guess what difference does it make if im wandering through Paddy's Markets, Haymarket or Khan el-Khalili, Cairo.



I'm travelling to a country where the respect for woman is non-existent. Where 85% of the female population has been circumcised. Where the wife is not equal to the man and should not be seen smoking or drinking. Where female tourists are depicted as prostitutes and are taunted and touched by other Egyptian males.



I'm travelling to a country 10855 miles away on my little ownsome for a month. I'll have noone to bounce questions off if i don't know what im doing....ok so thats most of the time. I'll have noone to laugh at my insanely witty and hilariously funny sense of humour ;-)...except for me. Most importantly, i will have noone to give me a cuddle when i get homesick and sooky...and no, Achmed the rug merchant's advances will not count.


So please get me started on flying. Why is it flying down the freeway on the back of my motorbike with nothing between me and the skin biting, bone breaking bitumen road put's a cheesy smile on my dial and yet being in tombed in a cylindrical pressurised tincan hurtling through the sky at 400km's per hour is enough to put my stomach in my throat and imprints of my sweaty palms in the arm rests...Hmm.. when i put it like that who can blame me really.

I'm sure its normal to be getting a little bit nervy ...and you know, i'm sure its normal that my nerves are affecting my sleep. Oh and I'm sure its normal that this pre-holiday stress is causing me to have a stomach ulcer.



But HEY, i love travelling!!!!